The Western Region

From Mgias

Contents 1 Introduction 2 Features of the Western Region 2.1 Birds 2.2 Other Indigenous Creatures 2.3 Landscapes and Geological formations 2.4 Plant Life 2.5 Beaches and Marine Life 2.6 Cultural History 2.7 Lemurs 3 Internal Flights and Transport

Introduction

The Western Region runs along the western costal plain and plateau of the island, from north of Mahajanga (the main city of the north-west) to Morombe in the south, from sea level to 800meters.The annual rainfall ranges from 500 to 2000 mm, with a marked dry season of 7 to 8 months, during which most of the trees shed their leaves. Cattle breeding still thrives along coast, and graze along the coastal plains and mid-west slope. These have degraded the original forest. As a result, the vast majority of vegetation covering this area is now replaced by fire resistant dry grassland.

The primary dry deciduous vegetation is restricted to some valleys and limestone plateaus. Sacred and protected forests are situated in hilly areas and are therefore difficult to access. So, because of the lack of control, bushfires often occur in these forests. Whereby the old crystalline rock basement covers the upland and the eastern region, the landscapes and geological formations of the Sakalava country consist of a long sinuous valley, formed entirely of sedimentary rock.

The most interesting site in Madagascar lies in the west, the 152,000 hectares BEMARAHA National Park which was declared a WORLD HERITAGE SITE in 1990.

Features of the Western Region

Birds

The Bemaraha National Park is one of the best regions for birds. Here you can see the following species:

1. the rare Madagascar fish eagle,
2. Vandam’s vanga,
3. Shlegel’s asity,
4. Pigmy kingfishers
5. Bernier's teal

Other Indigenous Creatures

Kirindy forest is a sanctuary for other indigenous creatures like the Fosa, the largest mammal known in Madagascar.

The Sakalava country which consists of a long sinuous valleys, formed entirely of sedimentary rock, is very rich in fossils. In some caves, marsh and stream sites, fossils of extinct megafauna are found. These include

1. Bones of dinosaures (Majungasaurus crenatissimus, Tiranosaurus Madagascariensis),
2. Skeletons of flightless elephant birds
3. Egg shells,
4. Skeletons of pigmy hippopotamuses, giant lemurs, crocodiles and boid snakes
5. Shark and ray teeth,
6. Turtle and tortoises

Amongst the other indigenous creatures found exclusively in this region are:

1. The giant jumping rat
2. The stump-tailed chameleon

Landscapes and Geological formations

Some limestone plateaus of the western area are characterised by the spectacular razor sharp limestone pinnacles or "Tsingy" in the Bemaraha National Park areas and also in the inaccessible Tsingy of Namoroka. The breathtaking "TSINGY" refers to sharp limestone pinnacles. This eroded karst mountain range with unusual geological structure is unique on earth. It’s a remnant of a coral reef system laid down 250 million years ago. It has been eroded by rain into jagged peaks, grooves and crevices; under which are networks of subterranean rivers, lakes, caverns and large caves with stalactites and stalagmites.

Whereby the old crystalline rock basement covers the upland and the eastern region, the landscapes and geological formations of the Sakalava country consist of a long sinuous valley, formed entirely of sedimentary rock. This area is very rich in fossils.

Plant Life

The plant life in this region is drought resistant and the stems, trunks or roots store the plants' water.The dry deciduous forest canopy is generally low, ranging from 12 to 20 meters in height. The baobab tree, which swells with the water stored in its truck, dominates this region. About of 5 species of countries'7 baobabs are found in this region. These include the Adansonia grandidieri or fan shape baobab (Morondava). This region is often called the 'Kingdom of baobobs'. The plant life along the coast includes the fire resistant palms (Medemia nobilis, Hyphaena shatan) which are burnt each year.

The 152,000 hectare BEMARAHA National Park was declared a WORLD HERITAGE SITE in 1990. It offers a rich bio-diversity of plant life including the succulents Pachipodium menabeum and runterbergianum, plus Adenia sp. Some odd plants with long aerial roots grow on the surface of lime and others that grow on the ground floor, so have very long stems.

Beaches and Marine Life

The beaches and marine life in the Western Region include several deep bays and well protected harbours. These have attracted explorers, traders, and pirates from Europe, east Africa and the Middle-East since ancient times. This dominates the cultural history of the area.

Cultural History

Ruins of the first settlement and oldest mosque built by the Arab traders as far back as 9th century, are found in the north-western part coast. An active trade in slave and cattle also grew up along this coast. Some caves in the "Tsingy" of Bemaraha National Park shelter the old burial places of the Vazimba first settlers.

The cultural history of the Sakalava people is a blend of Bantou-Swahili and Arab tradition and language. Islamized Africans and Arabs settled in the north-west coast in the early 9th century. There is a high concentration of moslem Malagasy people in this area and their language contains more Swahili and Arab words than the central and eatern regions. Zebu cattle play a key role in the Sakalava society like African people, zebu representing wealth and high standing. “Tromba” or spirit possession characterised the African root in Sakalava culture. Fitampoha" or royal bathing relic ceremony is very important ceremony for the Sakalava people of the western region, being held every 7 years on the river bank of Tsiribihina river and attracting many tourists.

Lemurs

Many species of lemurs are reported to live in the dry deciduous forest of the Beharama National Park. Among these are:

1. Decken’s sifaka,
2. Verreaux’s sifaka
3. Brown lemur
4. Red tailed sportive lemur (nocturnal,)
5. The fork marked dwarf lemur (nocturnal).

The Ampijoroa and Kirindy forests are worth visiting because they have a wonderful collection of indigenous flora which are home to some endangered species of lemurs. These include

1. the mongoose lemur,
2. coquerel’s sifaka,
3. the nocturnal Ravelobe mouse lemur, (Ampijoroa forestry station: Ankarafantsika national park) and
4. the nocturnal Pigmy mouse lemur weighing about 25grams (Kirindy forest).

Internal Flights and Transport

The park is well known for its wilderness areas. However, even though it is becoming a tourist attraction, it still remains remote from the more familiar tourist venues. Note the area is enclosed and accessible only with four-wheel drive vehicles. It is opened only during the dry season from April to November. However, you can fly over the Tsingy of Bemaraha in any period.

There are three alternatives to reach the Tsingy of Bemaraha:

1. from Ankavandra in the mid-west, canoeing in a rubber canoe down the Manambolo River to Bekopaka which lies at the entrance of the Beramaha National Park.
2. from Belo, a 96 km track road south of Bemaraha, the boarding a motor boat or local pirogue to reach the final point of the Tsiribihina River trip being in the Bemaraha national Park.
3. from Morondava, the coastal town that lies 96 km south on a track road.

The park accommodation is poor. There is only one over-booked good hotel, with a few rooms, and three very basic hotels plus a campsite with facilities and restaurant.

There are 2 sites of Tsingy or eroded karst massif in Madagascar: Bemaraha (west), (accessible only from may to november) and Namoroka (north-west) in a very remote and inaccessible area.

There are also the following parks and nature reserves:

1. Kirindy forest(near Morondava),
2. Ankaranfantsika national park(Mahajanga),
3. Zombitsy National Park(near Sakaraha in the central south), as well as the Tsingy of the Bemaraha National Park (north of Morondava).

ITINERARIES IN THE CENTRAL AND WESTERN REGION

1. Antananarivo fly to Mahajanga, Ankaranfantsika national park (camping), drive back to Antananarivo : 4 days. To see birds such as the rare Madagascar Fish-eagle and bernire's teal, we recommend the boat trip to the Betsiboka estuaries(Mahajanga) to sea water birds + 1 day to Bemaraha Tsingy to visit of the wetland of Manambolomaty( World Wetland Site:Ramsar convention) and/or and Tsimembo forest (camping) + 2 to 3 days.
2. Antananarivo, Antsirabe, Morondava, Kirindy forest and Alley of baobabs, fly back to Antananarivo: 5days
3. Antananarivo, Tsiroanimandidy, Ankavandra, then a river trip consisting of 5 days of canoeing down to Manambolo river to the Tsingy of Bemaraha, Belo sur Tsiribihina, Morondava(Baobab alley). Fly back to Antananarivo: 10 days
4. Antananarivo,Miandrivazo, a river trip of 3 days to Bekopaka, Tsingy of Bemaraha, belo Morondava fly back to Antananarivo: 9 days

Extension

• Mahajanga to Anjohibe cave ( accessible only during dry season from May to October) + 1 day
• Morondava to Toliara :+ 5 to 6 days